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In 1975, Helmut Newton was contacted by Vogue Paris; the artist was to oversee one of the season’s fashion spreads. The shoot took place in a narrow little Paris street: rue Aubriot in Marais.

Video News Story:

Helmut Newton 'La Smoking' For YSL
In 1975, Helmut Newton was contacted by Vogue Paris; the artist was to oversee one of the season’s fashion spreads. The shoot took place in a narrow little Paris street: rue Aubriot in Marais.

Featured: Helmut Newton’s iconic 1975 photograph of “Le Smoking” by Yves Saint Laurent re-created.

The original photo session in 1975 was attended by an intimate group of just 5 people: Helmut, then-chief editor Francine Crescent, a hair stylist, and two models.

Newton asked Vikebe, a model who he regularly collaborated with, to incarnate a familiar figure in 19th century French art: the dandy, who “has no profession other than elegance,” according to Baudelaire.

The idea behind the image is simple: a masculine woman, androgynous, in a Parisian street by night. “Le smoking” gives her power; her body language accentuates an impression of inaccessibility.

A confident posture, the way she holds her cigarette, is front and center… Everything comes together to give her a man’s expression, and yet, in total contrast, it’s femininity to the max that’s printed on this glossy paper.

The photograph had to be taken at night, so as not to deprive the clients of their precious pieces.

This didn’t bother Helmut Newton one bit; on the contrary, the artist liked to work at night.

He took the photo with no flash, using only the light from the street lamps. This is without a doubt what makes the photo so poignant and realistic.

And this was the goal: even though elaborate, the image had to represent a scene that had actually taken place.

Newton took on the role of a paparazzi taking a detour in this little street, capturing this instant with the greatest discretion. And yet this photo was very out of the ordinary for Helmut’s style, since the woman on it was entirely clothed.

Yes, Newton didn’t adapt, neither to conventions nor couturiers. That’s why he took a second photo. Almost identical to the one ordered by Vogue, he added a nude model wearing high heels, sensually caressing her more virile counterpart. A glacial scene that is now iconic.

Comments:

Joe Peffer

Funny how iconic film images could be grainy, gritty and soft in focus. Now, everything has to he pristine and ridiculously clean including the retouching.

coreen simpson

One can never recreate GREATNESS!

Cris Signori

RIP Helmut !!!  A true visionary and one of the very greatest of all time.

Molly Repetti

These are so compelling and inspiring. Absolutely lovely Rankin

aarongluzman

Elegance, His secrets, Incredible, Magic moment

Ben LINNIT

THANK GOD FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS

Jürgen Kaßnitz

Thanks for sharing this series with us, but especially for this episode in honor of Helmut Newton, a real pathbreaking photographer. And without any doubt, these re-enacted photos are brilliant as well.

Charles Fara

wow, great stuff

'Video Producer : Staff-Editor-02

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